Tuesday, 2 September 2014

eco-friendly fantasies

The growing design philosophy of sustainability is far
from being just a trend; more and more fashion designers
are spearheading eco-conscious methods of production
with minimal waste and environmentally friendly materials.
London-based Korean designers Gyo Kim and Yuni Choe
can be rightfully included: the gifted duo behind womenswear
label 'Gyoyuni Kimchoe' skillfully combines sustainability
with luxury showing their ”respect of life and nature creating
modern sustainable fantasies and eco-friendly myths 
out of inspirations from art history, narratives and 
contemporary issues” the label's manifesto goes.

Gyo Kim and Yuni Choe met in New York where Gyo Kim
was studying fashion at Parsons School of Design moving
afterwards to London for Yuni Choe to start studying at
Ravensbourne College of Art; they both fine-tuned their
skills at Central Saint Martins. Focused on sharp tailoring
and dramatic draping, 'Gyoyuni Kimchoe' ”produces
experimental collections for women of unique personalities”
through androgynous garments plenty of ideas and surreal
details that utterly deserve the Fashion Scout's Merit Award
for the spring-summer 2015 season: they will showcase a
fully sponsored catwalk show at the upcoming London
fashion week where their quirky outfits will patently 
have an unalloyed success.

all images © by GYOYUNI KIMCHOE
from Fashion Scout & Vogue UK websites

Monday, 1 September 2014

make love not fashion

Berlin-based designers Karen Jessen, Anna Bach and
Luis C. Zuniga are the masterminds behind Benu Berlin,
a label which is considered the herald of eco fashion
using exclusively upcycling techniques or materials from
textile surfeit. Karen started off as a sustainable designer
with the much lauded 'Diploma' collection turning worn
shirts and jeans into 'street couture' garments building
the basis of Benu Berlin's approach.

”We love to experiment with different techniques like
braiding or macramé and to get inspired by the soul of
every item; special stitching, washings and handcrafted
details” the B.B. design team declares adding that ”all 
the items are developed and produced in our manufactory
at Benu Ranch. Even scraps turn into elaborate fabric
manipulations and structures. Benu Berlin proposes a
diagonal view on fashion by creating expressive textures
from decomposed and disused materials the designers
reintegrate into a cycle which otherwise would have 
been disrupted in the ever accelerating process 
of buying and throwing away.”

> campaign and lookbook images © by Ryuichiro Louis Iijima <
The eco-label's first ever RTW collection for s/s 2015, wittily
called ”Make Love Not Fashion”, debuted on the runway of
'Showfloor Berlin', the Berliner catwalk of Berlin fashion week,
showing unique crafted pieces: old military apparel converted
into lovely everyday garments, plissé made from discarded
parachutes and structured leather creations in coral, lime 
green and earthy hues. Benu Berlin definitely knows how 
to turn sustainability into the latest fad!

> catwalk images © by Mehdi Bahmed <

Thursday, 28 August 2014

Ooh, glossy lady

Valeska Jasso Collado is a young fashion designer
born in Hamburg who entered London's University of
Westminster attaining her MA with a playfully brave
graduate collection which is wacky and glossy as no
other, plenty of gripping shapes and where pleats are
bolted with steel screws and chrome washers.

Deeply inspired both by the eye-popping postmodern
aesthetic of the Memphis Group design movement
established in Milan in the early 1980s by architect and
designer Ettore Sottsass conceiving furniture and interior
design from the point of view that 'form doesn't automatically
follow function' and by the work of ceramic artist Ben Fiess,
Valeska's ccllection looks like a style utterance 
focused on voluminous yet clean shapes.

She gave birth to her sculptural, glossy silicon-lacquered
garments in pastel hues and quirky geometric silhouettes
by skillfully combining metal, foam and latex. She started
using foam to build her playful shapes but was soon in need
to find a stretchy fabric mate to make them shine and she
came to choose latex. Helped by her father, Valeska carefully
developed her foam-latex showy experimental outfits with
futuristic huge hoop skirts and step-in saggy dresses where
outsized pleats in contrasting colors are smartly 
fastened with screws and bolts.

A stimulating collection which is actually a feast for the
eyes, thus it couldn't go unnoticed: only four weeks after
the college's graduate show, Valeska was offered a job
in Paris by Jacquemus where she now lives hoping to
start working on her own designs, too. She will certainly
develop more wearable garments in all likelihood 
with more comfortable materials from now on.

lookbook images © by Marek Puć
graduate show images (3,4,7) © by Evie Parazite

Sunday, 24 August 2014

fixing up the perfectly imperfect

Young fashion jewelry designer Qian Yang, the mastermind
behind the 'YQY Jewellery' label, graduated from London
College of Fashion with a breathtaking collection all played
around the concept of 'repair' through the Japanese art of
'Kintsugi', the fixing of broken pottery with laquer or gold
highlighting cracks and repairs as typical events of the
object's life in order to embrace the flawed and imperfect.

Called 'The Ceramics Repair Collection', the impressive set
shows second-hand and already broken porcelain pieces
repaired with 24-karat gold plated metal. ”It is a collection 
full of fun and I added extra preciousness to these ceramic 
pieces” Qian unassumingly declared, yet her gold-dipped
 porcelain figures look wondrous.

> all images © YQY Jewellery, from the label's fb page <

Friday, 22 August 2014

Jon Mikeo: 19 seconds to fame

Today's the day of a new Spanish talent to show clear
signs of future success: born in Pamplona, the capital
city of the Navarre region, Jon Mikeo moved to Barcelona
to study at FD Moda, the Fashion Felicidade Duce design
school; became finalist in different fashion contests such
as 080 Barcelona Fashion and CreaNavarra; gained
internship at the revered Santa Eulalia for his tailor training
and came to receive a scholarship to sharpen his skills at
London College of Fashion specializing in womenswear
while making practice at Agi & Sam and Panos Yiapanis.

Mikeo's graduation project, called 'Diecinueve Segundos',
'19 Seconds', ”is born and defined by tradition, nostalgia
and pain. An intimate, sophisticated and avant-garde collection
that expects to catch the attention where volumes, embroideries
and patterns play a sensorial role”, Jon declares introducing
his dramatic garments: wide-brimmed hats and hooded capes,
knitted cardis and trousers, sort of parachute dresses worn 
over opera gloves with gripping details like tiny embroideries,
 fringed hems made of dangling wood sticks in a coulisses galore.

'19 Seconds' provides a wistful feeling tangling up past and
present in a convincing approach which has recently been
lionized again: during China fashion week, Jon won the
Hempel's international competition for young designers
organized by Hempel Group with China Fashion Association
as 'the best newcomer' and was lately hailed as the 'best talent'
at the MODAFAD Fashion Awards 2014. Mieko is indubitably
an out-and-out talent who's about to reach stardom 
and I bet he'll do it right in 19 seconds!

> all images © by Javier Ávila <

Wednesday, 20 August 2014

Robert Wun's design ingenuity

Glad to be back with the amazing creations of Robert Wun,
a young Hong Kong born designer who settled down to
London where he undertook a womenswear BA course
at London College of Fashion graduating in 2012 with
'Burnt', a collection of burning fabrics incorporating the
asymmetrical defects seen in butterflies and moths which
instantly became the hallmark of his design ingenuity.
Robert briskly developed a sophisticated, a bit futuristic
vision ”through innovative manufacturing yet with uncompro-
mising attention to traditional values” as he states.

”The chaotic interplay between Nature and artificial forms
is the centre of the design ethos through resourcing in the
novelty of nature and the revolutionary forms of the artificial
world...” he introduces his own approach to high-end clothing
which is a constant play with proportions, curved lines,
geometrical shapes and gorgeous details. Robert Wun's
AW 14-15 collection, called 'Volt', is a tribute to Japanese and
African tailoring that explores ”the discovery of energy and how
it interacts and inspires us and our culture practices...” he told
the press adding that ”Japanese and African are the two main
resources regarding the silhouette and the ideas I developed
are actually based on the admiration of those cults for the 
sun as the main source of energy in the universe.”

Visually striking, 'Volt' examines nature's inborn energy showing
original garments plenty of tailoring ideas and details worn over
incredible mannish platform boots in pony skin referencing ice
skating boots while nylon tubes suggest the veins inside our
body in two couture dresses aptly called 'the Vein Dresses'.
Wun's manifest adeptness has been recently recognized by
the world of cinema, he came to create lightweight suits for
an advert directed by renowned Hong Kong filmmaker Wong
Kar-Wai and was approached by the makers of 'Hunger Games'
as the guest designer of 'Mockingjay', the third chapter of the
story designed so far by Vivienne Westwood and Sarah Burton.
Wun has definitely the style it takes!

> all images © by Sebastian Abugattas <

Sunday, 3 August 2014

the 'provo-cut' textile injurer

Zita Bettina Merényi is a young Hungarian designer
who developed an innovative technique which provides
the ”sterile purchased fabrics a new aesthetic and
functional changes” as she declares introducing her
MA (in fashion and textile design) graduate collection
at the renowned MOME, Moholy Nagy Mûvészeti
Egyetem, Budapest's University of Art and Design.

Her 'Provo-CUT' collection ”is a coat collection where
I use soldering rather than tailoring lines which look
like scars, reflecting on the long term and temporary
traces of mankind on Planet Earth and on their own
body, just like scarification tattos”
Zita told the press,
”these scar lines generate very new forms, which 
are plastic, sculptural and look beautiful 
and strange at the same time.”

Her efforts to weld together theory and practice led
Zita to carefully build by hand (pretty impressive, huh?)
all her experimental garments: instead of sewing together 
sections of gray neoprene, Zita made use of heat to fuse
the polymeric material into eye-catching oversized coats
with protruding hems and fluid lines looking like rubbery
suits of armor and was brave enough to make slits one
by one - weeks of laborious, painstaking work, a sort of
meditation she recalls - in long satin dresses with the
soldering iron eventually painting their edges. 
”I injure the textiles but then I heal up the holes 
with a layer of paint” she wittily says.

Zita also used laser cutting in some long gowns to get
more detailed patterns or dangling narrow strings in
see-through looks, yet her carving technique creating 
horizontal, vertical and diagonal textures subtly evoking
body marks give a brand new feel to tech materials:
definitely a scarless talent to keep a sharp eye on.

> all images © by Zsolt Ficsór <