Thursday, 29 May 2014

'Gamut': minimal with a flow

Norwegian designer Damien Fredriksen Ravn is a devotee
of punk music living and working in Antwerp, northern Belgium,
where he graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts after
his fashion foundation diploma from the Scandinavian Design
College in Randers, Denmark, who briskly developed a Nordic
essential style deftly mitigating his punk-at-heart nature.

Damien - a longtime collaborator of the 'Underground' brand
making authentically British rock'n'roll inspired shoes ”with
a sense of irreverence at heart” - is a kicking designer with
a penchant for subtle contrasts whose punkish attitude is
emphasized by the use of hi-tech materials juxtaposed with
silk velvets: Damien combines latex, neoprene, nylon and
breathable 3-D spacer fabrics (he works closely with Belgian
textile company Marcel Liebaert producing technical fabrics)

with time-honored craftsmanship and handworks skillfully
reinterpreting ”classics like the cape and the little black
dress with surprising choice of materials, in a beautiful
and wearable way...” as ELLE Denmark's May issue goes.

Hailed as the 'New Nordic Talent of the Year 2014' at the
ELLE Style Awards event held in Copenhagen (where ELLE
Denmark joined forces with MUUSE for the very first time),
”Ravn was chosen for his innovative use of modern materials
and couture-like volumes achieved in the form of a sculptural
evening coat and dress.” I bet he's going to have a long busy
summer being invited to design a capsule collection under the
MUUSE label while he's currently teaching fashion design at
the Warsaw Fine Arts Academy, running his own label, making
bespoke pieces in his atelier and freelancing in Belgium!

Damien Ravn's s/s 2014 collection, called 'Gamut', draws
inspiration from the entrance decor of 'La Maison Cubiste' at
the Salon d'Automne of 1912 by Raymond Duchamp-Villon
and André Mare and the Expressionist architecture of the 
Amsterdam school showing almost monochrome pieces
conceived as building façades playing with volumes,
pleatings and foldings worn over black nylon socks and
Underground's double platform Penny Loafer creepers.
Each single garment is cut out of a single pattern on 90 or
45 degree angle paying close attention to thread directions;
pockets are incorporated (some patterns are more than four
meters wide and superbly folded) while sleeves are tailored.
Nifty Scandinavian looks in full flow with peculiar 
punky hints from a genuine talent to watch.

> all images © by Eric and Nicolas Danhier <

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