Friday, 30 May 2014

designer(s) for tomorrow

DfT stands for 'Designer for Tomorrow', the fashion talent 
award conceived by Düsseldorf-based Peek & Cloppenburg 
company and its online shop Fashion ID to provide a visible 
platform ”supporting young and rising designers in an ongoing 
way” as they proudly state. American designer Tommy Hilfiger 
is the patron of the 2014 edition and lately he came to pick out
the Top 5 'Designer for Tomorrow' along with a world class
jury of fashion experts: the DfT 2014 nominees met for the
first time last week at the Direktoren Haus in Berlin during
the preparation day. Let's take a peek at their work.

'The Broken' is the collection by South Korean designer Young
Kyun Shin, a London Central Saint Martins alumnus who declares
that ”designing for the strong bold woman, I am using interlacing
lines and jagged edges cut from leather and light fabric, coupled
with tough metal, wool and lace to create strong visual contrasts.
The unconventional combination of unusual materials.”

'Cocoon' is the appropriate name given by designer Sylvia
Roustcheva, fashion design graduate from the New Bulgarian
University of Sofia, to her collection which ”is inspired by a cozy
cocoon wrap where you can stay by yourself. A soft and warm
place that embraces yourself and is listening to your inner voice.
It is about draping knitwear and playing with material opposites
like wool and silk in oversized silhouettes and exaggerated

 forms” her statement message reads.

Currently studying design and pattern-making at the ESMOD Intl.
University of Art and Fashion in Berlin, Julia Winkler entered the
DfT's finalists with 'UTQC', standing for 'Until The Quiet Comes',
a collection that ”combines elegance with abstraction. I draw my
inspiration from the album UTQC by electronic music producer
Steven Ellison. The clash between psychedelic music, optical
illusions, the human unconsciousness, hallucinogenic optics
and concepts of a dream world is its fabric epitome, 

reinforced through use of the moiré effect” Julia
 writes introducing her elegant striped looks.

Matteo Lamandini is an Italian fashion design student of the
Istituto Marangoni with a seditious post Saville Row approach
designing joyful men's jackets and high-waisted tapering trousers
by juxtaposing huge tartan designs with diagonal glen check
and micro pied de poule motifs ”the inspiration comes from the
Zoot Suit movement, born in America in the 40s”, Matteo declares
”from young guys who protest against the society dressed
sumptuously with tailored outfits - something they have been
considered wasteful for. Concerning drapery I used 'Tartan',
'Scozzesi' and 'Finestrati' inspired by the artist, Sol LeWitt.”

With her 'Poetry of Dissection', Irish designer Maria Lola Roche,
a fashion design student of Dublin Griffith College, explores her
”fascination with the form that all humans exist in from birth till
death - a form that contributes to our identity and embodies the
abstract. The visual focus was on certain parts of the body, in
particular the ribcage. Exploring the ribcage's negative and
positive space inspired me to create this contemporary collection”

she states. The grand final will take place in Berlin next July as
a side event of Merceds-Benz fashion week where the Top 5
collections will be unveiled: congrats to all the young 
designers, may the best win!

'DfT' 2014 Top 5 designers, left to right: Sylvia Roustcheva,
Julia Winkler, Matteo Lamandini, Young Kyun Shin, Maria Roche
all images from 'Designer for Tomorrow' website and fb page

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