Wednesday, 5 March 2014

tarred & feathered individuality

If it's true that fine feathers make fine birds, what
about the striking quilled creations by London educated
Icelandic designer Anita Hirlekar? The Central Saint
Martins BA graduate who has always been fascinated
by traditional handcrafting techniques and who's steadily
establishing - after significant experiences interning at
Christian Dior Couture in Paris, Diane von Furstenberg
in New York as well as in Rajasthan, western India,
printing with blocks and mud - her own approach by
combining handmade fabrics with print comes with
an enthralling new collection.

Anita's women appear to have undergone a polychromatic 
tar & feather treatment being wrapped in elegant 
knitted nets looking like solid brushstrokes freshly 
squeezed out of tubes of paint. Wool threads
seem to have been shredded and felted together
by hand to create different woven textures that are
paired with elaborate pieces made with shattered
mirror bits creating blinking effects while walking and
are often see-through-paneled. Lively as a painter's
palette, her manipulated fabrics convey a sense of
tradition and innovation at the same time and 
I'd really like to touch them to feel the roughness 
of this sort of wearable artworks.

The young designer is currently on the MA fashion
textiles course but she proves to have what it takes
to spread her wings keeping on her keen combination
of charm and comfort, old-fashioned and 
newfangled techniques.

> all images © by Giovanni Giannoni/WWD <

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