Friday, 27 December 2013

Selma according to Ku

...I've seen it all, I've seen the dark
I've seen the brightness in one little spark...

nugget excerpt from Björk's ”I've seen it all” in 'Selmasongs'

Johan Ku - the Taipei-born knitwear virtuoso whose
chunky knits combined with glimmering textiles
I greatly appreciated two years ago (here) - recently
unveiled his Gold Label s/s 2014 collection called
'Selma' at Mercedes-Benz fashion week Tokyo showing
his take on the contrast between fantasy and real life
and how his sculptural style has come a long way.

Wholly inspired by the leading character of Lars Von
Trier's 'Dancer in the Dark' movie that was awarded the
Palme d'Or at Cannes Film Festival in 2000, the collection
depicts Selma - who was masterfully played by Björk (best
actress award)
- and mainly the way she escaped from 
her harsh daily life slipping into daydreams, 
sort of elaborate musical theater shows.

In the movie Selma gradually loses her eyesight and she's
eventually caught, put on trial and condemned to the gallows
through false accusation. Ku declared he was moved ”by the
sentiment of one 'who is innocent yet misperceived'. 
This collection makes use of a mix of materials to depict 
the blur of vision as well as the differences in 
perception depending on distance.”

I'm amazed at how gorgeous the details of his 3-D garments
look, promptly calling to mind the cover image of 'Selmasongs',
the OST of the movie: translucent glossy materials, electric
graphic prints and kaleidoscopic collages of small plastic
shards and pieces of fabric that skillfully symbolize Selma's
blurred vision. Outstanding mosaic-patterned outfits and
netted knits of iron rust and black, handmade fabric treat-
ments and small metal parts printing. Kudos to Ku!

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