Monday, 28 October 2013

a matter of Size

'Anrealage' as someone said before me, ”is a small brand
with massive ideas” that since its debut aims at stirring the
fashion world: more a think tank lab than a design label,
Anrealage is a coined word that sounds like 'un-real-age'
meaning 'everyday extraordinary'.

Established in Tokyo in 2003 by Japanese designer
Kunihiko Morinaga - a graduate of Waseda University
and the Vantan Design Academy whose imagination
proved to be larger than life and in all likelihood triggered
by the work of masters such as Rei Kawakubo - Anrealage
made a name for itself through a conceptual approach
and a highly experimental use of materials.

Each season Morinaga and his fellows love to explore
a peculiar concept of dressmaking: they came to create
innovative garments shifting from pale to vivid pastel
tones when placed under UV lights, plastic molds pushing
the silhouette out or pixel-patterned outfits composed of
colorful square blocks of different fabrics to name a few.

This time they looked into size through a histrionic show
in which models wearing masks made of black and white
square pieces walked the runway introducing the RTW
s/s 2014 'Size' collection at the Laforet Museum in Tokyo's
Roppongi district instantly setting a melodramatic mood
to put on display the contrast between big and small,
broad and narrow through ”the Empire stripes back”
beginning theme with black & white stripes of different
widths fighting over who's better fitting.

The show proceeded emphasizing the polarity between
small and huge bags, mini and oversized white shirts,
wide-legged trousers and tapered capri pants but the
coup de théâtre was about to come: three models
wearing the same black dress were lifted up on a
platform above the runway where their garments
gradually shrinked into minidresses with asymmetric
gathers. Actually Anrealage developed a size adjuste-
ment system that thanks to an inside crank changes
it around the body and it's fully self re-sizable.
Style is also a matter of size.

> all images © by Giovanni Giannoni via WWD <

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