Monday, 4 March 2013

the infinity of tailoring


Japanese fashion maven Rei Kawakubo aptly
called her elaborate fall/winter 2013-14 collection
for Comme des Garçons ”The Infinity of Tailoring”
because it stands as the ultimate step in 
her own constantly advancing research.


She began with a provocatively two-dimensional
winter collection (previous post here), through a
spring-summer of dour post-atomic queens with
blown-up metallic headpieces almost in black &
white to reach this new formula in which classic
and experimentalism eventually merge.


CdG's exploration of the infinity of tailoring is cerebral
and emotional at the same time, a unique show of
artistry (and outstanding detailed labor, too)
exploring new biomorphic shapes and proportions.
Once again menswear provides the blank canvas
on which Kawakubo can unleash her creativity
transforming its most classic fabrics such as
pinstripes, pied de poule and Prince of Wales
into tailleurs and suits that look both rigorous
and extremely creative.


I'm nuts about these androgynous silhouettes with
puffed sleeves and wide shoulders in which Saville
Row-esque suitings are twisted into sculpted flowers
and bows, adorned with knots, checks and wide
stripes and filled with overlapping swatches of 
fabrics, padded panels and cut-outs.


At the end of the Paris show, color hues began to
appear, starting with carnation red tones to burst
into cheerful multicolored outfits reinterpreting
unheralded artist Daniel Michiels' work through
gorgeous kaleidoscopic prints in a real dazzle of
design mastery and craftsmanship.

detail images © by Filippo Fior/Gorunway/Indigital
catawalk images © by Fashionising

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