Monday, 18 March 2013

making noise, not clothes

Japanese cult label UnderCover has developed
throughout the years a significant trademark through
deliberately slashed and deconstructed 'street style
friendly' garments. Run by gifted hipster designer
Jun Takahashi whose punkish byword sounds
”we make noise, not clothes”, the label gradually
established a signature anti-fashion aesthetic working
on men's and womenswear (he actually designed
also a running apparel line for Nike being himself 

 an avid runner) in the wake of Vivienne 
Westwood's initial influence.

Recently Jun Takahashi made his comeback in Paris
to showcase UnderCover's womenswear AW 2013-14 
'Anatomicouture' collection which ”is about internal
organs and bones, showing something from the inside
exposed to the outside. Like lingerie that's usually hidden
underneath, I used to make dresses and so expose them
to the outside” Takahashi declared to Swiss born,
Paris-based illustrator turned fashion photographer
and journalist René Habermacher in an interview for
The Stimuleye, the collective multidisciplinary
online platform sheding light on the most 
inspiring topics in today's art and culture.

Models wearing papier mâché bunny masks walked the
runway at the Pasteur Institute introducing an original
'scary cute' parade of rain slickers, perfectos, waxed
trench coats worn as a dress and cute little dresses
with body parts prints such as skeletal hands 
clasping the waistline, rib cages and hearts.
Among them a burgundy sculptural little dress, the top
ruffled with entrails (the guts and bolts of experimentation!)
and a studded heart while the bottom reveals fancy bone
and skull lace designs;  punkish sleeveless evening
jackets made by piling up vintage lingerie pieces and
white dresses with deconstructed men's shirt 
collars that make me go wow!

studio images  © by René Habermacher
Besides being a spearhead, Takahashi is experienced
enough to combine with ease his theatrical pieces
together with more wearable everyday looks: as
Habermacher wrote ”Seamlessly he migrates between
outfitter to the urban hipster to action art performer...”

aptly describing UnderCover's unique charm.

catwalk show pictures  © by Filippo Fior/InDigital/GoRunway

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