Monday, 18 February 2013

twilight melancholical mood

Mary Katrantzou is universally known for the gripping
colorful prints of her extremely realistic aesthetic and
she deservedly reached a fashion whiz status in 
just a bunch of years.

Hailed as the 'queen of digital prints', the Greek native
colourist expert aims at breaking new ground each season,
often taking her broad audience by surprise as in her latest
London show that looks restrained at a first glance.

Mary showcased a fall/winter 2013-14 collection which
is unquestionably less catchy than the previous ones
denoting a different approach more focused on shapes
and silhouettes, introducing drappings and foldings while
stepping away from colors with painterly prints of shadowy
landscapes subtly evoking the mysterious, fatalistic mood
of film noir and namely the early twentieth century 
photogravures by Alfred Stieglitz, Edward Steichen and 
Clarence Hudson White, visual masters who helped 
advance the cause of photography as a true art form.

 A melancholic mood made of almost monochrome images
referencing the American photographers with imposing iron
bridges seen through the misty air above the river, wet
cobblestones reflectling a tall streetlight, garden walkaways
bathed by moonlight and cherry trees in blossom turning 
as usual the body into a dreamy canvas with the 
intensity of detailed etchings.

But the black & white prints do not only represent Katrantzou's
step forward: she introduces asymmetrical elongated and even
flat angular shapes, rounded shoulders, origami foldings, 

bondings, laminates and overprints while manipulating 
jersey to make it look like knitted, mixing iridescent prints, 
intarsia knits and structured jacquards, 
blurring chiffon overlays with the brand new
addition of embossed black leather.
Mary may be weary of colors yet her artistry remains 

as seductive as ever: I just wonder where 
she will head to next.

> all images © by Fashionising <

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