Monday, 4 February 2013

in the shape of tradition

Sir Winston Churcill once declared that ”without tradition,
art is a flock of sheep without a shepherd. Without innovation, 

 it's a corpse” and these words sound perfect even now
and surpisingly appropriate to describe the new collection
by Catalan emerging designer Miriam Ponsa.

Called 'Transhumance' referring to the old practice of the
seasonal movement of people and livestock from summer
grazing grounds to winter pastures, the collection is actually
a 'treball en curs' (Catalan for 'work in progress') through
which the young designer and her team revisit the
time-honored textile tradition of the Ponsa family 
dating back to 1820 when her ancestors set up a 
weaving plant in the town of Manresa.

Miriam studied fashion design in UK at the University of
Southampton, sharpened her design techniques in Igualada
before establishing her eponymous label in 2000 occupying
the premises of the former Francesco Ponsa factory.
The atmosphere you breathe in this place has something
she declares ”the factory reminds me of my
childhood, the stage of acquiring interests 
and forming personality.” 

Nowadays Miriam Ponsa is a well-known womenswear
label that has been repeatedly awarded and showcased
throughout Spain as one of the most promising that skillfully
combines age-old artisan weaving techniques such as
basketry, upholstery and fabrics woven on the handloom
together with modern procedures such as dripping 
and marbling applied to latex.

The latest AW 2013-14 collection has been presented
at the 11th edition of 080 Barcelona Fashion a few
days ago showing striking layered garments made
with different materials in loose-fitting shapes, in which
wool is the main figure: pure, wicked, felted, macramé,
knotted, almost handworked or with ribbons applied,
wool is definitely the key feature of Transhumance'.
Bucolic hints are spread throughout the collection:
bulky knits, woollen and felted hats, the hair tied under
the chin like a scarf, capes, masculine cardigans,
heavy duty handbags and a cocooning in garment
evoking a sleeping bag; everything symbolizes the
bond with tradition and antique craftsmanship
as well the ongoing commitment to innovation.

> all images © by 080 Barcelona Fashion, 2013 <

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