Wednesday, 13 February 2013

Browne's boxy lady

Thom Browne is getting things squared away after his
first womenswear runway show at New York fashion
week, an awe-inspiring 'female power' manifesto that
proves how the renowned men's suits designer is
eager to make the most of his tailoring skills also in
womenswear: something the bush telegraph of 
fashion will deservedly hype for weeks.

Browne made a name for himself reshaping men's gray
flannel suits through his own provocative touch highlighted
by stunning presentations (how could we forget his astronauts
in Paris), introducing his RTW womenswear collection in 
2011 and, needless to say, for the silk tie jacquard coat
and dress combo designed for First Lady Michelle Obama
for the presidential inauguration.

The designer's latest AW 2013-14 collection was actually
the first showcased in a seated runway show instead of
the ritual presentation (for sure I would have hit the deck
overwhelmed by the beauty of shapes and details!).
Its general mood makes me think back to theatrical
Galliano and Brit 'crinoline queen' Vivienne Westwood.

Superbly tailored boxy garments with exaggerated
shoulders and emphasized hips in classic menswear
fabrics, form-fitted bodices and jackets, red silk
bell-shaped gowns, coat dresses with fur edges in
a rich profusion of patchworked motifs and an original
take on the recurrent lace theme through laser-cut
appliqués. Gorgeous, strong and obviously over the top.

Browne proves that with talent by your side you can be
extremely creative using just four shades: black, white,
gray and blood red: it goes without saying that the show's
outfit proportions won't probably work in everyday life
but I've no doubt about Browne's ability in turning these
dramatic silhouettes into more commercial garments.
What I'm nuts about is the sophisticated juxtaposition
of menswear fabrics and feminine ornamentation 
as much as the wondrous craftsmanship 
behind each single piece.

Thom Browne will briskly earn just the boost he needs
to show the world of fashion he's bound to take the
menswear-inspired tendency to a higher ground.
> all images © by Fashionising <


  1. Dearest Mikapoka,
    Quite an interesting line he created with this squared shoulder style. LOVE the very first one with the roses...
    Happy Valentine's Day to you.

  2. Deserved hype, indeed!

    I hope we see a 'wearable' version of the (I don't want to say it) 50 shades of gray skirt (tbbl_10), while the knitted dark-gray halter top (tbbl_16) looks wearable as is.