Thursday, 17 January 2013

Cano takes Berlin


I'm back 'in the mood for Cano' on first seeing his sumptuously
romantic AW 2013/14 collection called 'Anima', Spanish for
'Soul', that was showcased at Berlin's MB fashion week two
days ago in his first own runway show. 'Anima' is more than
a single collection, yet a true compendium of style plenty
of ideas, cuttings, finishing techniques and suggestions.



The first time I met Leandro Cano, the young Spanish
couturier who's known as the 'Designer of Tomorrow' from
the namesake Peek & Cloppenburg's event hosted by Marc
Jacobs which honored his unique talent, I felt weak at the
knees on the understanding that he had what 
it takes to spell the world of fashion.



I shouted out ¡muchissima suerte Leandro! checking his
'Buffet' graduate collection in June last year, so you can
imagine how happy I was knowing that he won the 2012
'DfT' award and yet again I'm totally beguiled by his lush 
silhouettes, the way he plays with proportions and volumes
as well as by the painstaking attention to detail of the
baroque and surrealistic idiosyncracies of his unique
style fully highlighted by luxurious floral prints 
and zany ceramic applications.



The gifted couturier, to paraphrase a notorious Leonard
Cohen's song, first takes Berlin then he'll take Manhattan
and the rest of the world through a breathtaking parade
of 36 classy pieces in which a contemporary frame of mind
is not afraid of being subsumed with baroque nostalgia.
Amazing outfits made with artisanal craftsmanship,
exclusive prints and fabrics such as whitish fake fur,
sheer materials, leather and chunky wools.



Among them fairytale hourglass dresses, a see-through
plastic shirt decorated with ceramic flowers worn upon a
rusty red leather skirt (a direct hint to 'Buffet', though),
aethereal white dresses with tone-on-tone or polychrome
ceramic appliqués evoking sources of inspiration ranging
from bygone times, Spanish influences, baroque floral
patterns but it's better to let the pictures tell the tale.



Last but not least I would like to thank all the people who
helped Leandro Cano to become a fully grown designer
because in my opinion he's the new talent the world of
fashion was waiting for ever since the tragic 
demise of Alexander McQueen.
¡Bravo Leandro, si sigues asì, llegarás muy lejos!

all images © by Markus Schreiber/AP Photo
and © by Peter Michael Dills/Getty Images Europe

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