Sunday, 11 November 2012

empire-building talent

Don't get fooled by the neon red plastic letters adorning
the model's face, it's just a clever catwalk trick bearing
both the brand's name and the collection's title, yet young
talented Ukrainian designer Yasya Khomenko needs no
ploy to revive attention on her playful style.

Yasya is the owner of bang-up womenswear label
RCR Khomenko, established in 2010, who made a
name for herself ever since her first collections thanks
to her girlish approach, her honed sense of self-irony,
not to mention the always accurate selection 
of fine fabrics and detailed prints.

She was finally awarded the Harper's Bazaar Fashion
Forward 2012 (she entered the magazine's prize shortlist
three times in a row) proving to be one of the up-to-date
most promising designers of Eastern Europe.
Personally, I went into raptures about her AW collection,
delicate and vigorous at the same time (here) and I think
well of her latest 'Empire' s/s 2013 collection too, that
was showcased last month at the Mercedes-Benz
Fashion Days (or MBKFD) in Kiev.

”This collection is on the empire, my own empire...” she  
declared, ”this empire is a beautiful form of totalitarian
regime, it is for the people. So be proud of your empire.”

she deliberately added to give particular emphasis to the
collection's statement. Skillfully played on the verge of
a ”so cheap - so expensive” dichotomy as well between
exploration and practice; it shows complex cut dresses
in patterned fabrics as silk brocade and vintage cottons
with detachable or even partially sewn sleeves subtly
transforming the shoulder line.

Khomenko's outfits inspire a sassy allure for the playfulness
of her insight into today's society teetering on the brink of
failure, Yasya reads the mood through experiments, playing
with contrasts, shapes and textures, yet the detailed layering
and the high quality of production make her pieces a
long-lasting object of affection. The keystone of her empire.

> all images © by MBKFD <

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