Tuesday, 24 January 2012

Mabille's femmes en fleurs


Don't get fooled by the big floral headpieces in Alexis Mabille's
spring 2012 haute couture collection yesterday on the runway
of Paris Haute Couture nor by the painted faces of the models
matching the overwhelming flowers, it seems to be just a 
dazzling coup de théâtre hiding the lack of new ideas.


The Lyons-born designer whose reivention of the bow tie
came to define his work began his career as a costume
designer at Lyon Opéra before completing a three-year
degree course at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute
Couture and started training at Ungaro and Nina Ricci.


He joined Christian Dior working on jewelry and men's
accessory collections under John Galliano and Hedi
Slimane, his professional mentors, and in 2005 launched
his own RTW unisex collection and Treizeor, the line
of butterfly knots that became his distinctive sign and 
briskly made his name as the French breakthrough 
designer with a fresh take on unisex fashion.


I love his attitude towards fashion and I think he has the
right dynamic for haute couture: Mabille knows how to be
traditional and revolutionary at the same time, his looks
are ”couture unisex” being inspired by Couture itself yet
IMHO the whole collection tells nothing new except for
the candy-colored dresses: maybe Mabille chose not to
risk in these troubled times when the whole concept
of doing couture is rejiggered by the day.

> all images via fashionising.com <

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