Thursday, 29 September 2011

turning wastes into dressmaking

Recycling, the good practice of converting waste
into resuable materials, has been the starting point 
of the stimulating exhibition I briefly visited 
today at the Centrum ”Sete Sóis Sete Luas” 
on my way home.

Called ”Scart” (playing on the words art and scarto,
Italian for junk) the small exhibition shows the other
side of everyday goods turning the discarded ones
into brand new products, suggestions and exercises
in style by Florence Academy of Fine Arts' students.

I confess I did it in haste 'cause I was terribly late
(waste vs. haste) focusing my attention mostly on
the dresses made from old tires, leather color cards,
stationery debris, shoes outsoles, bingo numbers,
 confectionery paperboards, plastic bottles and 
orange rubber gloves (see pics in order).

Notwithstanding my hurried tour  
they really made my day.

Tuesday, 27 September 2011


The centuries-old affaire de cœur between art and
fashion has a new devotee, Polish artist/designer
Halina Mrożek, the Krakow Academy of Fine Arts
graduate who keeps on the long relationship's 
conceptual, avant-garde feeling.

Exploring the boundaries of clothing and the broader
meaning of fashion, Halina creates sculptured artworks
tending toward dressmaking, unique conceptual pieces
made experimenting with a wide range of materials,
shapes and proportions. Amazing pieces the designer
smartly christened as 'sculpt-couture'.

Keep a check on her website browsing through
her works that are hard to categorize yet extremely
tantalizing and even qualified to cross over 
to actual fashion design.

> all artworks by Halina Mrozek, photos by Borys Makary <

Monday, 26 September 2011

Marni's worldly woman

I deeply adore Marni and whenever the brand brings
something into play I'm thrilled to pieces yet the s/s
2012 collection put on display in Milano yesterday
is bewitching, coquettish and conventional 
at the same time in its retro flavor.

Marni's chief designer Consuelo Castiglioni called
to mind a time of meek femininity realizing unassuming
garments whose shapes are highly feminine without
being tantalizingly slinky in earthy browns, green 
and blue shades with lots of white.

From simple shift dresses through perfectly cut, high
waisted jackets and dresses to geometric printed
hourglass silhouettes always playing on lengths
and the mix of fabrics, the whole collection shows
lots of irresistible ideas like the woven raffia godet
skirts or the contrasting shades of resin 
flower pattern appliqués.

What I really like is the preciseness in combining
different textures, the exact shapes of skirts and
tops, the clever interpretation of the season's
recurrent daisy motif, not to mention the unusually
sequined embroideries or the amazing beaded
aprons worn over sheer shorts with rounded edges.

Accessories are simply great, from ladylike clutches
and handbags in 2 or 3 colors made of intertwined
leather to massive glassy bangles and spectator pumps: 
besides I'm not a fan of the desperate housewife's
sort of nude socks which are truly awful yet a little
flaw (or maybe it's just an ironic hint) could 
be straightaway forgiven.

> all images © by via Vogue <

Friday, 23 September 2011

in pursuit of sweetness

Jeez louise, it happened again: Miuccia Prada
took a new turn never failing to astonish all of us!
Her flawless, dropped-waist fall/winter collection
last February left me spellbound (here) while I guess
I'd need more time to grasp her humorous s/s 2012
unveiled yesterday at Milano fashion week.

The well-thought-of designer shows a great sense
of humor in spite of our troubled days (or maybe 
by reason of) introducing a collection that denies
aggressive, outspoken femininity to, as she says,
”rediscover sweetness” and sweet sensuality.

I must admit I don't like the coat shapes at all,
they seem to be punitive (fabrics are gorgeous,
though) and to be frank the flamelike motifs
and the cartoon cars printed on bold colored
leather skirts and handbags made me
dumbfounded at a very first glance.

Yet Prada's reign could not be blemished by
controversy: the retro-looking, highly embellished
bathing suits, her decorated jackets, embroidered
patterns and accessories are once again a step
ahead of the rest of the world: eyeglasses with
winged frames and killing shoes mimicking Hermes'
winged shoes or, strangely enough, the 50's 
Cadillac Coupe de Ville taillamps are the
waggish riposte to my doubts.

> all images © by via Vogue <

Tuesday, 20 September 2011

nonpareil beauty from above

contrails and chemtrails in yesterday's sky
Summer's about to end and these days' clear sky
often shows cross-hatching aircraft contrails that
always make me think, casting doubts upon their
own composition. Have you ever guessed how 
they may look from above?

contrails from space, ”evidence of life on planet Earth” Nespoli wrote
I've been collecting the stunning images taken 
by Italian ESA astronaut and gifted photographer 
Paolo Nespoli from the International Space 
Station in January this year as a digest
of our planet's unparalleled beauty in details.
I must confess that I've taken the liberty of 
turning or resizing most of them on purpose 
to make a sort of inspiration board.

overlooking Tietê river, northwest of São Paulo, Brazil
frozen landscape in northern Canada
Paolo went twice to the station, first aboard
space shuttle Discovery and this time as the
STS-120 crew mission specialist always taking
wondrous pictures and lately sharing them on
Twitter by the name @astro_paolo fully 
capitalizing his enviable, unique point of view.
Among them the well-known heart-shaped atoll
the astronaut aptly posted on Valentine's Day.

heart-shaped atoll, north east of Solomon islands
above Onekotan volcanic island, north end of Kuril Islands
blue Caribbean Sea off the coast of Belize
Lugano and Como lakes in the foothills of the Alps, Italy-Switzerland border
A million thanks spaceman, kudos and best
wishes to go up in the stratosphere once more:
”non c'è due senza tre” (all good things 
come in threes, after all)!

Astronaut Paolo Nespoli, © GCTC, Gagarin Cosmonaut Training Centre
images 2 > 8 © by ESA/NASA/Paolo Nespoli

Monday, 19 September 2011

stubborn Fringe winners

Fashion Fringe, the dynamic event held annualy
in conjunction with London fashion week,
represents a pivotal confrontation between
young talented designers showing evidence
of Britain's ongoing resourcefulness in fashion
design and dressmaking.

Last year Florida-born Corrie Nielsen was
appointed as the winner by the jury's head
judge John Galliano (here) while the current
edition presided by Mr. Roland Mouret
assigned the prize to Fyodor Golan, the
creative label of designers Fyodor Podgornijs,
hailing from Latvia and Israeli Golan Frydman
who met while working at Alexander McQueen
where they started to develop their 
own gothic vision.

The worthy winners of Fashion Fringe 2011 competition
came to show their dogged determination not to
deviate from their own creativity that blends
their conceptualistic approach with beautiful
hand detailing and fabric manipulation in 
creating dapper evening wear.

The duo's capsule collection, called ”Flowers of
Evil” d'après Baudelaire, showed dramatic gowns,
engrossing laser cut white leather pieces, joyful
sequined dresses and appliquéd nature-inspired motifs
as well a whole sophisticated percipience.

Congrats for the much coveted accolade, you guys!

> all images © by Filippo Fior/ <

Sunday, 18 September 2011

beware of satyrs

Beautiful maidens, extremely delicate and
light, too perfect for our material world, hit
the runway of Cibeles Madrid fashion week
in Elisa Palomino's today show strongly
fascinating the event's audience.

The experienced Spanish designer who's
widely known for her fairy-tale fondness
as well for her remarkable career presented
her spring 2012 collection whose major
influence is the Pre-Raphaelite aesthetic.

Elisa's sylph looking models with rosy cheeks
and cherry lips wear romantic hand-embroidered
gossamer dresses, fishnets loaded with beaded
flowers and fluid silks printed with leaves, birds
and butterflies in a clever allegory of 
the enchanted forest.

Amazing headpieces made by Laura Fernandez
and Angel Love highlight the dreamy aura and
the passionate nature of the whole collection.
Just beware of satyrs, ethereal beauties!

all images © by Podium pictures