Monday, 31 January 2011

bell-shaped gracefulness

Nadja Auermann in a Patrick Demarchelier's photo
Extremely delicate and charming in a way that seems too 
perfect for this world wearing incorporeal dresses 
as light as butterfly wings, with soft layers 
of fabric shaped like flower corollas,
ethereal creatures walk the runways on their tiptoes.

Marchesa's s/s 2011 collection, photo by Monica Feudi/GoRunway
Marchesa's s/s 2011 collection, photo by Monica Feudi/GoRunway

It's the bell-shaped gracefulness of the 
tutu trend for  “jeunes filles en fleur”.

photo by Max Wanger for ban-do
Emanuel Ungaro's s/s 2011 collection via
Laura de las Heras, ESDEMGA's 2010 graduate
Agyness Deyn photographed by Matthew Frost

Sunday, 30 January 2011

hopeful Sunday sign

Hellebore flowers are the first to bloom these days 
brightening up a bit the colorless winter garden 
in spite of the chilly wet weather.
A hopeful Sunday sign though winter's far from ending.

Saturday, 29 January 2011

brightly shining altitudes

Amsterdam International Fashion Week has been the venue where
talented young yet well trained designer Jan Taminiau (previous
post here) presented his latest fall-winter 2011-12 haute couture
collection having pride of place in the Dutch event.

An impressive baroque collection called “Irradiance” made of 
opulent handcrafted creations with sumptuous fabrics and 
great attention to details in wich Taminiau's extraordinary 
intricated designs, the finest fabrics he specifically 
realized for the show as well the technical expertise 
in the finishing touches gave such a buzz out of it.

The Arnhem graduate is indeed one of Netherlands best fashion
designers realizing both demi and haute couture collections in 
his unique way. He put together such a dramatic show where 
reflecting threads and metallic yarns glimmered in the dark 
giving out a steady radiance of light effect to all the 
accurate dresses while models carefully walked the 
runway in otherworldly high heeled shoes and moreover 
with their heads fully wrapped in glittery shawls.

This kind of platform shoes, typically made of wood 
or cork, were called 'chopine' in Venice from Renaissance 
times up to 1700, their height being a symbolic reference 
to both cultural and social standing of the wearer: 
the higher the chopines, the higher the status.
Shakespeare joked on their dangerous height (usually 
they were put on with the aid of two servants) in his 
Hamlet tragedy by wryly using the word 'altitude'.

Once again Jan makes his name resound even more that his earlier
achievements did thanks to hard work (he created the woven 
fabrics himself and previously showed also his demi couture 
collection), inventiveness and high craftsmanship.
The world of fashion lovers must know of his genius.

catwalk & details photos by
backstage photos by Peter Stigter

Friday, 28 January 2011

fashion at work

Back to Pitti Immagine Filati, today with a stop over in
Spazio Ricerca and the Fashion at Work area where all
creativity in yarns begins: it's an experimental observatory/lab
where trends are analyzed and launched and where
creative heads in fashion and design get together.

Spazio Ricerca is devoted to the most advanced services and 
technologies for the textile/clothing industry offering a unique 
agenda in which research, products and prototypes engage
in ongoing dialogue: this year's theme was SENSO,
journey through our senses and their potential revealing
ideas and concepts which are all around us yet are just
waiting to be understood in new ways.

Staged by fashion designer Angelo Figus and knitwear
expert Nicola Miller in settings designed by architect 
Alessandro Moradei, SENSO used the senses to break
through the wall of emotional, cultural and sociological
conventions separating the pleasant from the unpleasant,
the ugly from the beautiful, the well-done from 
the badly manufactured.

Spring-summer 2012 celebrated our senses through
25 new stimuli which, like short films, translate the
elements of collective experience and daily life into
something extraordinary. 25 situations that become colors,
moods, textures and structures divided into five themes, one
for each sense, developed around five very distinct scenarios.

So sorry you may use only your sight, this fussing
parade of knitted garments, voiles and textures deserves
of course to be touched!

Thursday, 27 January 2011

fine yarn headwear

Florence's Pitti Filati trade fair throws the hat into the ring 
once again fully taking up the challenge as the trailblazer 
event in yarn and knitwear trends and proposals, 
the 68th edition opened yesterday showcasing a profusion 
of ideas and suggestions for spring-summer 2012.

Here's my first report from it and it's oddly about milliner:
I was truly amazed at how attractive knitwear hats looked 
in the fancy capsule collection designed by Giorgio Spina 
and made by Florentine long-standing Grevi 
company with a selection of Be.Mi.Va. yarns.

Grevi is the historical milliner company founded in 1875 in the 
town of Signa, on the outskirts of Florence, which is renowned 
for their high specialization as well as for launching the Tuscan 
lambskin hat onto the world market back in the 60's, 
came to build the Pitti Filati collection in collaboration with 
Be.Mi.Va. which, in addition to producing yarns for weaving 
undertakes the creation of classy worsted yarns for knitwear.

Hats are strongly back in trend while knitwear is always at 
the top, so the combination of the two is simply dynamic: 
through the changing of fibers which become more and more 
sophisticated and diversified, the collection shows fine 
headwear pieces manufactured using traditional methods 
based on highly specialized workmanship, the one 
handed down over generations in Tuscany.

Wednesday, 26 January 2011

pointed flat couture

Kaiser Karl has plentifully proved to be able to reinterpret the 
Chanel legend with thoroughgoing changes over the years and 
his latest Chanel couture collection made no exception.
Guess you've seen the catwalk shots of the exquisite, 
ballet-inspired assemblage (actually one of the season's 
stronger trends which Mr. Lagerfeld decodes at its best) 
made of fine, extremely light and delicate gossamery 
dresses, sequined or beaded leggings and stretch jeans, 
skirts with belted A-line minis, floating chiffons 
and ruffled undelayers.

Evening or party pieces include amazing drop-waist 
and tutu-skirted dresses, tailored column gowns, beaded 
tunic tops and a fancy coat-dress which seems to be 
made of ice crystals; all of them in the characteristic
Chanel's monochrome or washed pastel palette paired with 
ice blue, wan pink, lavender and mother-of-pearl tones.

Here's my own selection of the features I love, details that 
can as well inspire the everyday wear of people like us 
who can't afford expensive couture clothes because 
anyone could improve an outfit by wearing pale denim 
leggings or a chiffon skirt over straight pants paired 
with sash belts and superflat pointed shoes.

all photos by

Tuesday, 25 January 2011

carpet diem

“Overleaf yellow”, Nepalese rug by Marni
I must admit I'm not a big fan of carpets and rugs (even 
if I've spent several years in the Arab countries where a 
rug is an eternal must) anyhow I fully agree hand knotting 
is a true art and that a beautifully crafted and originally 
designed rug will surely become a precious 
heirloom to pass on for generations.

“VW flag”, Aubusson wool rug by Vivienne Westwood
When the accurate craftsmanship of entirely handmade rugs 
meets the signature touch of some of the world's prominent 
fashion designers something special happens like in the 
'Designers Collections' woven by The Rug Company.
Founded in London in 1997 by Christopher and Suzanne Sharp, 
the firm creates contemporary high-end rugs by combining 
modern designs with traditional weaving techniques skillfully 
reinvigorating these old-time crafts.

“Rubbish”, Aubusson wool rug by Vivienne Westwood
“We make rugs in exactly the same way as they were made 
400 years ago” Mr. Sharp says “... we're passionate about quality,
design, craftsmanship and service...” and the extra value 
of big name designers such as Vivienne Westwood, Marni,
Diane Von Furstenberg, Paul Smith and Alexander McQueen
really makes the difference.

“Military brocade” wool & silk rug by Alexander McQueen
“Hummingbird”, Aubusson wool, pashmina and silk rug by Alexander McQueen
The Rug Company partnered with fashion designers mainly 
to expand their handmade Aubusson tapestry rugs using 
techniques originated in the French namesake town 
centuries ago but even several Tibetan wool made 
Nepalese rugs bear the stylists' distinctive mark. 
“Elementi”, Nepalese rug by Marni
“Climbing leopard”, Nepalese rug by Diane Von Furstenberg
Tragically, McQueen signed off his latest creations a few 
days before he passed away so his rug collection became 
a posthumous one and in all likelihood it would 
increase its value at a brisk pace.
Yet all of these woven masterpieces will certainly
acquire a well-earned long-lasting value.

“Carnival”, Nepalese rug by Paul Smith
>all images by The Rug Company ltd.<

Monday, 24 January 2011

Pitti Bimbo picture show

Laura Biagiotti's
>kids from the big chill<

both Miss Blumarine's
left: Calvin Klein's    right: Miss Blumarine
  >army of me<

left: Blauer junior's    right: And's
left: Woolrich's    right: Fendi's
>walk in the woods<

left: Fendi's    right: Elsy's
left: Elsy's    right: Miss Grant's
left: Blauer junior's    right: Miss Grant's
>black side<

left: Miss Blumarine's    right: Miss Grant's
left: Calvin Klein's    right: And's
>school mates<

left: ICE Iceberg's    right: Elsy's
left: Blauer junior's    right: Elsy's
left: ICE Iceberg's    right: Calvin Klein's

My own themes selection from Florence's  
Pitti Bimbo 72nd edition catwalks.