Wednesday, 9 March 2011

icy Queen and her court

Last year when Sarah Burton accepted the uneasy task of taking 
over Alexander Lee McQueen's fashion house after his untimely, 
tragic demise most of fashionistas were doubtful 
that the brand could successfully linger on.

Sarah Burton actually has been McQueen's faithful right-hand 
designer for fifteen years working as head of womenswear 
design and credited with utterly designing her own first 
collection showcased in Paris on October last (here).

“The creation of modern, beautifully crafted clothes was at 
the heart of Lee's vision and I intend to stay true to his 
legacy” she briefly announced after her engagement 
and that's what she swiftly did being hers 
part and parcel of the brand's DNA.

Burton designed a majestic and edgy winter collection indelibly
linked to McQueen's poetry called “The Ice Queen and her court” 
in which the late designer's imagination is filtered and softened 
with a less teathrical outward display of inventiveness while 
fully retaining the label's expressive power & prowess and 
showing her own ability to evolve its language and style.

Couture tight silhouettes (the show notes calling them “heritage 
silhouettes”) in high-waisted belts with fur lining hems, cuffs 
and shoulders; mermaid skirts with decorative zips; organza 
layered garments encrusted with beads and pearls and an 
amazing bustier made of porcelain shards that makes
me think of the lionized Li Xiaofeng's dress-sculptures.

Such a regal collection in which McQueen's dark mood becomes
through Burton's lenses a medieval fairy-tale where White and 
Black Queens are strutting around romantically austere so 
it's small wonder to find out that Miss Kate Middleton selected 
the house to design her gown for the upcoming Royal wedding 
which seems to be on everyone's lips in UK these days.

catwalk photos by Yannis Vlamos, details by Gianni Pucci, 
beauty by Luca Cannonieri - via


  1. i think sarah is doing an amazing job!

    i love the collection! nice post <3