Saturday, 12 February 2011

baroque meets sportswear

New York fashion week unveiled Jason Wu's forthcoming 
RTW fall-winter  2011-12 collection in which “baroque meets 
sportswear” as in the talented designer's inspiration evoked 
by Robert Polidori's photos from his book about the Versailles 
restoration in which the uneven surfaces of the construction 
site starkly contrast with the luxuriousness of the decor.

As you may know, Jason became a global star when 
First Lady Michelle Obama wore his white lace gown two 
years ago deservedly turning his label into a luxury brand 
that since then has launched twice-a-year appealing
collections in ready-to-wear, resort and accessories.

Wu's new collection shows a regal clusters of gilded embroideries, 
different types of lace and beaded embellishments relating to 
Versailles in androgynous silhouettes (he has been blamed for 
not being enough sexy) yet his austere collection brings 
back to his signature adult femininity with elegant, 
polished looks and his typical emphasis on tailoring.

Lace is skillfully used like a print in most of the outfits: down 
on jacket sleeves, knee-length skirts and shirtdresses, 
on black and nude cocktail dresses and blouses, by 
embroidering little sections of it (or by clusters
of gaudy stones and crystals).

The accessories are true to Wu's form: heavy platform pumps 
with golden or metallic heels, off-white and cherry red 
leather bags and plain color or embroidered clutches 
in a bare palette of black, white and nude with 
vivid touches of navy, burgundy and gold.

A restrained yet once again sumptous, ladylike collection.

catwalk photos by Marcus Tondo, details by Gianni Pucci/

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