Thursday, 30 September 2010

graduated beginners at the Vendome

Tomorrow the exclusive Vendome Mayfair club, Piccadilly Circus, 
London, will host a once in a lifetime event, the official launch of 
Fashion Babylon online auction of one-off pieces from the 
graduate collections of eight Britain's talented new designers.

The outfits, so special to the designers coming out from their 
fledging collections, have been watchfully selected by Fashion 
Babylon to generate an extensive show and will be auctioned 
off as separate pieces. Among latest British fashion graduates 
I show you the outfits designed by Victoria Louise Geaney, 
recently graduated with a 1st from UCA, Epsom, who hit 
Earl's Court runway during Graduate Fashion Show in June.

Her collection is based upon mirth and a great sense of comedy,
with Chaplin and Fellini as key influences showing an oversized 
mustard yellow tailored coat worn over elongated trousers 
made into a jumpsuit, a stunning trompe l'oeil constructed 
trouser-skirt made to look like a shifted pair of trousers 
with a turn-up cuff, a burnt orange Italian knitwear and 
a long white shirt worn over dark orange shorts with 
a big clownesque yellow tie.

Wednesday, 29 September 2010

wearable entrapment

The time of falling leaves has arrived, at least in the northern
hemisphere, that's the reason why looking for Fall season
themes I fall for “Cage” collection by gifted British young
designer Georgia Hardinge.

Her AW 2010 RTW collection, which is subtly designed around
the harsh concept of restraint and the feeling of entrapment, 
shows beautiful structured garments with bold silhouettes 
and detailed designs in contrasting black and white.
Artistic pieces, both distinctive and wearable, whose 
shapes outline and flatter the female body in which 
cage structures are incorporated into hips and 
shoulders to create an impressive effect.

all pics from:
Graduated from Parsons Paris School of Art and Design 
in 2008, Georgia worked for Samsung and Jean-Charles de 
Castelbajac before she set up her namesake label and 
successfully exhibited her debut collection with ON/OFF 
in London Fashion Week last year.
Hardinge's signature style is quite inventive and has 
already made her a name to be reckoned with.

Tuesday, 28 September 2010

drop-dead heeled weapons

Just a little warning folks: these heeled shoes are designed to 
inflict pain or physical damage and, most of all, an insane 
impulse to possess each and every pair of them.

Aggressive, eccentric, awesome heeled strapped 
kind-of-a-weapon-shoes designed and realized by the ingenous 
20-something American designer Lauren Tennenbaum
a visionary talent inpired by a more-is-more philosophy 
with a penchant for Geoffrey Bennison's extravaganza, 
the world of bikers, rock crystals and rock stars.

Geoffrey Bennison, the English renowned antique dealer and 
decorator who shaped British style, firmly stated:  
“... put something mad on top of something good, 
or something very good on top of something mad” 
and this actually drives the young designer's
credo and her label (in)decorous taste.

Lauren makes her unique breathtaking platform harnessed 
and crystal spiked shoes working with leather, nails and crystals 
in a very skillful way fastening them with rivets and straps 
but she designs also likeable bags in a combo of linen and 
leather with solid brass chains building up a drop-dead gorgeous
look which isn't indecorous at all.

all photos by the talented designer/maker

Monday, 27 September 2010

Foxe's editorials fandom

One more stunning fashion editorial by the well-known talented
duo of Financial Times' “How to spend it” magazine, stylist
Damian Foxe and photographer Andrew Yee showcasing the
key looks and trends for this autumn.

'HTSI' is the multi-award-winning magazine which has been
celebrating beauty and style in the last 15 years with sharp
insightful analysis of fashion trends and lavish images.

Damian Foxe, Sweden-born fashion journalist, stylist and
FT's style editor based in London, previously worked for
Time Out, Marie Claire, The Sunday Times and Vogue just
to name a few, is famous for his original approach to fashion
editorials as well for the distinguished competence.

This issue shows a whole range of trends with engaging
compositions made combining cutting edge perfect-fitting 
garments in the awe-inspiring photos taken by Andrew Yee
sheer plushness!

Saturday, 25 September 2010

ladies in lacy sleeves

Dress detail, 1908
From next week one of the greatest collections of historical 
European fashion clothing, as much as to say of fashion 
history from the age of Enlightenment to World War I, 
will be on display... outside Europe.

Wool coat and detail, Scotland 1845 -  Businessman suit, London 1911
LACMA, the Los Angeles County Museum of Art 
home to such a remarkable collection, will bring its 
unique handcrafted masterpieces vis-à-vis with the 
onlookers of ”Fashioning Fashion” opening exhibition 
in the brand new light-filled Lynda and Stewart Resnick 
Pavillion designed by Renzo Piano.

Dress detail, 1830 -  Silk, satin dress, England 1885
The exhibition is the most comprehensive of any 
European costume showcase in LACMA's history 
yet just a fraction of a major acquisition made 
by the museum will be on display.
An amazing parade of elaborated plainclothes 
outfits from the Old World whose charm after 
more than two centuries is unalterable.

E. Pingat's mantle, 1891 - Embroidery, 1795 - Dress, 1790
Stunning stiffened or hooped crinoline and taffeta 
dresses, detailed a-woman-must-have-everything 
ensembles, vests and coats tailored for the aristocracy 
long before the ready-to-wear conception.

Corset, boots and underwear, England, 1900
“Fashioning Fashion: European Dress in Detail, 1700-1915”
LACMA - Lynda and Stewart Resnick Exhibition Pavillion
Oct. 2, 2010  > Apr. 3, 2011

all photos: ©Museum Associates/LACMA via

Friday, 24 September 2010

portraits anniversary celebration

In celebration of Woolrich John Rich & Bros' 180th anniversary
world renowned photographer Douglas Kirkland has been
involved in a special project realizing portrait pictures of 18 
creative personalities featuring the iconic Woolrich Arctic Parka.

The exhibition will consist of two different types of portraits:
edgy digital photos in full color as well close up b&w pictures
taken with an 8x10 film camera to parallel the different 
dimensions of the classic outdoor brand.

Douglas Kirkland started his career in photojournalism 
working for Look and Life Magazines in the 60's and 70's, 
took pictures on the sets of more than 100 movies and his 
iconic images of celebrities are famous all over the world.
The exhibition will be inaugurated in WP store in Milan 
next Monday with the author's book signing and the 
Woolrich s/s 11 collection presentation.

Thursday, 23 September 2010

Jimmy is here

Still wandering Down Under, this time for New Zealand Fashion Week
where designer James Dobson, better known as Jimmy D, made 
his return with a gothic black on black collection.

The Auckland based designer came to fashion through photography
creating his own label in 2004 when he won the Mercedes Start-up
Award with his very first collection.

Jimmy D's s/s 11 collection ”Power Trip” has a dark yet elegant 
look with a sense of mocking humor in which androgynous, graceful
silhouettes are skillfully emphasized by drapes and asymmetries.

Jimmy's style has punk echoes but it's never excessive, his
dark mood is lightened by the fabrics quality and well tailored
shapes: what actually caught my eye is the way he makes the
body visible without stripping it off as well the way he plays with
see-through and transparencies with neatness and irony.

all lookbook photos in all likelihood by the designer himself
Designer James Dobson is also the co-owner of Auckland's
avant-garde boutique “Children of Vision” and runs his own 
weblog wittily named “Jimmy D was here”.
What a busy talent he is!

Wednesday, 22 September 2010

new kids on the runway

As I wrote in one of my previous posts, in Europe 
we shamefully pay no attention to Australia 'cause 
it's so far away, half empty and hardly in the news.
Could you mention a famous Aussie fashion designer 
by any chance? Except for Sass & Bide no one 
comes to mind but the world's largest island 
has several fashion academies as well a 
fast growing number of talents.

A young designer duo called Neo Dia, formed by recently
fashion graduated from Royal Melbourne Insititute of Technology,
Gavin Lowes and Becky Chua came to present a very interesting
debut RTW collection with stunning complex-structured clothes.

Inspired by the glorious geometric etchings 
of M.C. Escher as well architectural references 
the collection shows sharply tailored silhouettes 
while playing with proportions.
Crisp geometric lines and expanded mesh cutting 
techniques create an original aesthetics with 
origami-like skirts and minidress as well 
attracting sculptured rounded shapes.
Playful and beautifully architectural.

all photos by:

Tuesday, 21 September 2010

what's more alive than crowdsourcing?

I guess you can't remember the crowdsourcing shoes 
design contest promoted by WMATY (What's More  
Alive Than You?) I posted back in June.
 WMATY is a new Italian manufacturer of high-end shoes, 
bags and fashion accessories whose products are 
designed by fine arts university students, architects and 
fashion designers as well by the broader community 
of those who simply have good ideas.

In the last few days WMATY unveiled the first contest
winners and both bags and shoes premiere permanent 
collections realized by the skilled young talents 
who answered the brand's creative call.
Needless to say the selected designs took months of 
hardworking to select the right materials and textures 
and moreover the elaborate craftsmanship, 
totally made in Italy, to manufacture each single product.

Let me briefly introduce you to some of these amazing 
shoes as well their authors but you have to check the 
custom built website to see them all, to examine each 
artwork in detail and to find out the designers profiles.
Enjoy people generated fashion and don't forget you too can 
be a WMATY winner designer just answering next contest call!

A_Recycle Shoes, Boring Pink/Boring Blue
designed by Liza Fredrika Åslund 
from Nyköping, Sweden

B_ Sushi Cover  *  C_Gyoza Twist
designed by Premrudee Leehacharoenkul 
from Bangkok, Thailand

D_Floral Shoes collection: 
upper The Charlotte, lower The Victoria
designed by Victoria
Louise Geaney 
from London, UK

Monday, 20 September 2010

metropolitan ethno-chic

Among the designers who showed their spring 2011 
collections yesterday in London Kinder Aggugini's and 
Basso & Brooke's have a few similarities.
Both the labels possess an ethnic inspiration, Aggugini 
has been deliberately inspired by Africa while 
Basso & Brooke by the theme of travel.

Both the collections alternate plain colors with digital 
prints, lean silhouettes with fluid shapes.
Kinder Aggugini, the talented Saville Row alumnus, 
played with African dress codes, geometric textures, 
tie-dyed prints with just a trace of leopard-print.

Basso & Brooke's typical prints mix and match this 
time is definitely low-fi being based on hand-written 
manuscripts and maps or abstract oddities 
with a flash of oxidized leopard pattern.
While Aggugini's woman is push-pulled between 
modern world and African exoticism the 
Basso & Brooke's one is unresolved amidst 
the pre-digital age and present-day lifestyle.

1 > 5 Aggugini's 6 > 8 B&B's - all photos by Yannis Vlamos/

Sunday, 19 September 2010

kaleidoscopic visual language

photos 1 > 3 by Marcio Madeira/
Mary Katrantzou's AW 10-11 captured my attention 
last February at LFW for the dramatic use of oversized 
digital prints which evoked some of Gianni Versace's 
works of the 80's and even if I found them excessive 
and quite a bit odd they were undoubtedly a clever 
interpretation of the military style.

The Greek, London-based fashion designer, print and textile
expert who attended Rhode Island School of Design before
completing her BA and MA at London's Central Saint Martins,
showed rich and very feminine shift dresses inspired by
Madame de Pompadour with mega photographic printed
images of lace, jewels, medals and sashes.

Katrantzou's summer 2011 collection is forlornly the duplicate of it.
Once again massive digital prints of gardens, salons and white
mansions porches on sharp-angled dresses, stiff vest-jackets and
abat-jour shaped skirts in which vivid green and pink are mixed 
with pastel tones and plain black and white.

The whole collection concept and its hyperrealistic 
aesthetics is interesting nonetheless it looks to me 
excessively decorated and a bit sickly too.

photos 4 > 7 by Monica Feudi/