Tuesday, 30 November 2010

W's winter wonderland

Still working on your Xmas wishlist? Bet you'll find
further suggestions in “W” December issue thanks
to its amazing fairy tale-like couture editorial.

Superbly conceived and executed by Paolo Roversi
fashion photographer of great renown, and styled
by Alex White, W's fashion director, the shoot titled
“Family Circus” shows fabulous garments and a
wide range of clues.

Caught in the midst of a snowstorm in an odd fantasy
mood, half the way between Lewis' “Narnia Chronicles”
and Andersen's “Snow Queen”, the shoot bears an
otherworldly, mystifying aura.

You may spot in sequence, a Galliano's hat, Haider
Ackermann's silk kimono jacket, Carolina Herrera's
embroidered silk bolero, Giambattista Valli's silk
skirt and Vera Wang's, Dior's and Louis Vuitton's
silk and tulle gowns paired with Tessa Morehouse's
headpieces and Mokuba ribbons.

by “W” Dec. 2010 issue _ all photos by Paolo Roversi
So don't be surprised to ask yourself: 
what have I done to deserve a fairy dress?

Monday, 29 November 2010

C.S.M. nestflying

Soo-Jin Lee is just one of the highly talented (and trained)
designers graduating each year from London's Central St. Martins 
and she soon proved to have what it takes to cut in the 
competitive world of fashion industry during C.S.M.'s 
graduation show at York Hall, Bethnal Green last june.

The young Korean born designer who previously worked 
with Hussein Chalayan and Emilio de la Morena (needless
to say both C.S.M. former alumni) and even took 
part in Alexander McQueen's embroidery team, 
is briskly causing a stir thanks to the unashamed 
creativity behind her debut collection.

Featuring neoprene and spandex structured pieces, her
ss11 collection shows gilded geometric prints and structural
detailed dresses, mostly on shoulders and hips, in a vivid
color palette made of strong blues and purples enhanced by
gold bands in a Thierry Mugler-like futuristic style.

Quite a bold statement collection for a debutant which
reveals Soo-Jin not to have fear of the heights.

Soo-Jin Lee's debut collection pics via blow.co.uk

Saturday, 27 November 2010

pirate silk

Zurich is the largest city in Switzerland and one of the major 
international financial centers besides the town is well known 
to fashion professionals for its silk textiles production, 
like Como in Italy or the French cities of Lyon and Tours.
“Soie pirate. The Abraham Textile Archive Zurich” 
is the outstanding exhibition going on these days at the 
Swiss Landesmuseum Zürich which plunges visitors into 
the fascinating world of high-class craftsmanship, 
artistic innovation and glamour.

Cristobal Balenciaga's summer 1950, photo Willy Maywald

The massive wealth of Zurich's Abraham's ltd. archive, both in 
terms of quality and quantity, enables the most varied aspects 
of the world of fashion and textiles to be showcased. 
The origins of the company date back to 1878 and through 
the times it became a world leader thanks to the growing 
demand in silk textiles from rising middle classes and
the spread of affluent consumption in Western Europe.

Christian Dior's summer 1950, photo Willy Maywald
The Zurich exhibition helps visitors to gain in-depth knowledge
with remarkable interactions between Abraham's fabrics and
the world of fashion. Sample books, collection reference books
and a fantastic parade of 2.600 fashion photos and scrapbooks
with thousands of extracts from printed media bear witness 
to the finest quality of Swiss silk textiles.

Christian Dior's summer 1955, photo Forlano
The Abraham's archive has been studied for two years to form
the basis for the exhibition and the two-volume publication as
well as to secure knowledge about the company for the future.
“Soie pirate” displays creations by three superb couturiers,
Balenciaga, Givenchy and Yves Saint Laurent, the company's best
customers, an impressive photo gallery and a selection of the 
stencils used to print Abraham's designs together with garments 
and outfits designed by invited contemporary designers such as:
Akris, Diane von Fürstenberg, Dries van Noten, Heiner Brambilla
and Peter Pilotto.

Abraham's Couture Book, spring 1953
Abraham's Couture Book, spring 1956
Visitors will also learn about the National Museum's planned 
study centre and realise that the archive's not only the living 
visual memory of the company yet an endless place of 
inspiration and a top-notch image source.

Collection Reference Books, 1964 and 1967

Yves Saint Laurent's summer 1967, photographer unknown

Friday, 26 November 2010

steppin' out of the fringe_take 3

FF10 finalist Alice Palmer, photo by Jayden Tang for fashion156.com
Alice Palmer has a background in Textiles, graduated
from Glasgow School of Art she started selling fashion
accessories before moving to London to study at the
Royal College of Art as well to launch her own knitwear
label in 2008 briskly making a name for herself with
cutting-edge structural pieces.

Alice's ss11 collection, entitled “Fossil Warriors”, was inspired 
by dinosaurs bones following a visit to London's Natural History 
Museum so she came to implement those intricate structures
into knitwear by using 3-D knitting techniques combined with 
pleating, manipulating and sculpting the fabric applying them to 
a modern silhouette influenced by Japanese architecture.

She actually spent two years at the R.C.A. developing a 
new way of constructing knitwear which teams traditional 
techniques with unconventional methods and amazingly 
with no fabric waste: the result is a quite sculptural, 
technical collection which flatters the female body using 
soft durable fabric such as silks. Easy to wear as well 
to enhance each and every woman's appearance.

catwalk photos by: Chris Moore/catwalking.com
The 'Fringe three' with John Galliano

Wednesday, 24 November 2010

steppin' out of the fringe_take 2

FF10 finalist Jade Kang, photo by Jayden Tang for fashion156.com
Jade Kang's collection was inspired by the organic shape
of muscle and skin fibres of the human body in curious
combination with modern architecture structures juxtaposing 
rigid and delicate elements; our body influenced even
its warm color palette made of smoky coral red,
creamy orange and soft grey.

Born and raised in South Korea, Jade studied fine arts and
fashion design in his home city of Seoul developing a signature
styling of diversified tailoring, urban femininity and 
contemporary romanticism which led him to take the role 
of senior designer for Korean label Koogi and
later for Mool ltd before moving to London in 2002.

Upon graduating from London Fashion College Jade worked
for Giles at Giles Deacon studios on his 2006/7 collections 
before his remarkable skills as pattern cutter led him
to associate work with Alexander McQueen and 
Jonathan Saunders for their 2008 collections
launching later on his namesake uptown label.

His collection plays with the idea of soft garments with 
structured bodice and corset in which light corsetry is blended 
in or layered over and away from the body in a constant game
of movement and restriction within the garments using soft
fabrics such as chiffon, silk and organza carefully draped around
the body. Day looks for the contemporary woman glowing with
her own individual personality, encouraging her to be exclusive.

Tuesday, 23 November 2010

steppin' out of the fringe_take 1

FF10 winner Corrie Nielsen, photo by Jayden Tang for fashion156.com
Covent Garden's Fashion Fringe was created in 2003 by fashion
historian and Sunday Times style contributor Collin McDowell
together with IMG Media Company to help British fashion get back
its place as a powerhouse of pioneering originality targeting
talented young designers to make a dynamic fringe event to
coincide with London Fashion Week major exhibition.

Stepping out from the outer fringes of British fashion establishment
new sustainable designers created fancy capsule collections 
with a realistic practical target plan and that's precisely what 
the nationwide contest aims to look for: not only designers 
who are able to dream yet designers with a strong will 
to turn their own dreams into reality.

This year's edition put to show the challenge to reinvent the 
sense of creative adventure in UK's fashion continuing the 
tradition of iconoclastic visionary designers like Vivienne 
Westwood, Hussein Chalayan and the late Alexander McQueen.
No wonder talismanic  'Mr. 35-collections-a-year' John Galliano 
was asked to join the event as chairman to help select and 
sustain the worthiest young talent.

The three finalist designers were: Corrie Nielsen, the eventual 
winner, former Central Saint Martins alumna, Jade Kang, a 
graduate from London College of Fashion and Alice Palmer
Royal College of Art graduate.
They were given a budget along with studio space in summertime
from the London College of Fashion to produce their capsule
collections prior to the catwalk show at The Flower Cellars.

Florida born Corrie Nielsen was announced as the winner: 
her “Georgian Satires” collection has an aristocratic taste 
inspired by 18th century French fashion as well from 
English illustrators, she bears a sense of dramatic shape
with an eye to costume history and a “bookish“ approach 
to her research: “It's essential to know as much as possible 
about what came before so that you can draw on it, 
twist it and turn it around” she said.

Striking, bold colors with a skilled feminine cut, royal blue 
waist-tied trousers matched with soft pink ruffled tops, 
an amazing Marie Antoinette-esque gown with a large panier 
and thick grey fabrics shoulder-structured ensembles with 
an obvious stylistic affinity to John Galliano's works 
yet with so much hints to be exploited in the future. 
Because we all certainly hear more from Corrie Nielsen soon.

catwalk photos by Charlotte Jones

Monday, 22 November 2010


Sharp tailoring, asymmetrical shapes, vitaminic colors
combined with nudes characterize William Tempest's
ss11 collection of amusing girlie dresses.
The Cheshire born British designer unveiled his collection
“The Sirens' Song” during last New York Fashion Week
at Lincoln Center in September.

Heavily inspired by the legendary sea creatures and
Pre-Raphaelite paintings of John William Waterhouse
and Herbert Draper (you may take a look here), the
young designer's collection shows ethereal, fancy
outfits in a bright color palette.

Soft draping in frothy chiffons in which georgettes and velvet
devoré with mermaids shadows or stone-washed double duchess
satins and triple silk organdies follow defined silhouettes
like sea waves.  William's eager spirit, his own sensibility,
the top quality of his brand's products and, last but not least,
been worn by celebrities like Kate Moss, Emma Watson or
Mrs. Beckham to name a few, made them stocked
globally in high profile stores.

> all photos by: www.williamtempest.com <
Bet this “Cheshire cat” will grin for long.

Sunday, 21 November 2010

Iris' winning touch

Back in July I made a post about Dutch talented designer
Iris Van Herpen whose “Crystalization” collection I suddenly
fell in love with (here) that's the reason why I'm so pleased
to know she is the grand winner of Dutch Fashion Award 2010.

Not only she has been awarded with the Mercedes-Benz 
Dutch Fashion Award last week in The Hague, she even won 
the Dutch Fashion Accessory and the Incubator Awards 
becoming the front runner of contemporary creative talents 
Netherlands has to offer to the international fashion world.

Iris graduated from the HBO, ArtEz Academy of Visual Arts 
in Arnhem in 2006 and has worked on fashion shows of 
Alexander McQueen and Viktor & Rolf in Paris, collaborated 
with choreographer Nanette Linning and showed her 
own collections at major fashion week events.
Her aw10-11 collection called “Synesthesia” achieved 
great acclaim and a huge press coverage.

The winning designer shows the kind of pure creativity 
and modernity that can be projected into couture and 
anything off from there” stated Dutch Fashion Awards'
jury presenting Iris' impressive talent, her own original 
sculptural technicality and knowledge in the use 
of fabrics and materials.

all lookbook photos by: Rollan Didier, styling by Yasuhiro Takehisa