Wednesday, 30 June 2010

the butterfly effect

Images credit: Wendy Bevan

Have somebody ever told you that a butterfly fluttering
in Rio de Janeiro could change the weather in Chicago?
Referring to chaos theory this phenomenon whereby a minute 
localized change can have large effects elsewhere is called  
'butterfly effect' and it may involve fashion as well.

Butterflies have been plundered by fashion designers 
(how can we forget Alexander McQueen's hat or Manish 
Arora's dress? to name just two) in the past and this
running season's RTW collections make no exception.

Vivienne Tam became one of the most successful fashion 
designers by combining classic style culture with an offbeat 
flair to design clothes with an 'East meets West' eye.

Her s/s collection shows giant butterflies wings printed
on insubstantial fabrics in a wide range of colors, from
pastel tones to the bright hues of a tropical garden 
in clean, fluid shapes.

Butterflies models images: Carsten Witte

The awesome pictures made by Wendy Bevan and Carsten Witte 
were particularly suited, altough in their own different approach, 
to stress the fashion 'butterfly effect'.

Tuesday, 29 June 2010

go 4 gold!

Gianfranco Ferrè's gold dress, Luisa Via Roma, Florence

Left: the same dress on the runway, right: Derek Lam's bootie

Not only diamonds are a girl's best friend, have you ever
heard about good-old-gorgeous-gold?!

Left: Moschino fringed dress, right: Rochas' handbag

Left: PPQ trench coat, right: Dries Van Noten dress

Next fall-winter women's collections will glitter and gleam
with a total gold look made of stunning golden clothes 
as well accessories.

Left: Emilio Pucci's dress, right: Manish Arora's jumpsuit

A new gold rush marked out as an irresistible upcoming
trend and not only suited for a night out.

Left: Alexander Wang's minidress, right: Blugirl's heeled sandals

A tendency highlighted a couple of months ago when for
the first time ever a gold dispensing machine called ”Gold
to Go” ATM was unveiled in sumptous Emirates Hotel in
Abu Dhabi, the capital city of United Arab Emirates.

Golden Girls Go Gaping!

Monday, 28 June 2010

black & white brio

Black & white happens to be one of the leitmotifs
of the last Pitti Bimbo edition, I saw it almost everywhere 
during the three days exhibition.

I selected from a wide range of collections these ”I Pinco 
Pallino” brand outfits because they're quite cool and trendy: 
all in b&w with printed or graphic t-shirts, stitched jackets 
together with black denim.

The young models wear male-shaped straw hats, rigorously 
in black & white, for a strong yet clean American 60s look, 
where lines, dots and stripes chase each other and mix 
in an optical triumph.

Sunday, 27 June 2010

Lorenzo the magnificent

I know I've been neglecting illustration lately, furthermore
I have to fill out the field writing about one the greatest artist
I could ever have met, Lorenzo Mattotti.

Born in 1954, after studying architecture he briskly decided to
dedicate his enormous talent to comics founding together with
other avant-garde designers like Giorgio Carpinteri, Igort and
Daniele Brolli, the Valvoline group, the most innovative Italian
comics design factory of the 70s.

His works have been published in significant magazines
and his books are translated worldwide but I simply adore
the evolution of his drawing technique through the years.

In fact he became adroit at fashion design reinterpreting the
shapes and textures of celebrated brands and griffes' outfits
in his own otherworldly way adding so much more allure to
them than a photo session could rather do.

He worked for Albin Michel's ”Vanity” magazine, carried out
posters for events like Cannes Film Festival, advertising campaigns
and illustrated the cover of such magazines as The New Yorker,
Le Monde, Nouvel Observatuer and Suddeutsche Zeitung.

Recently he came to work in ”Eros” movie directed by Wong Kar
Way, Soderbergh and Antonioni creating the segments within the
three episodes and is internationally recognized as one of the
most outstanding exponents of art.

These sublime illustrations are from mid 80s issues of Vanity 
magazine (the first two from a Bluemarine poster) but you have
to check his official website here to get lost in admiration with his
style continuity, always within the eclectic practice of those who
have the courage to be trailblazing.

Saturday, 26 June 2010

Galliano's kids at Pitti Bimbo

Pitti Immagine Bimbo opened on Thursday at Fortezza da basso 
in Florence, where hundreds of buyers and visitors crowded 
around the childrenwear brands booths.

A familiar 50s feeling, ”American Graffiti” or better ”Happy Days” 
style at John Galliano's where huge gasoline pumps and bowling 
templates create the background to the s/s 2011 kids collection.

Galliano's Gazette print renewed in its color palette is 
almost everywhere, on outfits and accessories too.
Girls clothing takes inspiration from ”Little Miss American 
Beauty” contest with clouds of tulle and taffeta and 
jewel printed trompe l'oeil patterns.

Boys collection is quite a bit more casual with baseball 
jackets, jersey sweaters, denim and skaters garments
in a truly American Dream playlist of clothes:
everything seen through the lenses of John Galliano's 
typical sense of fun.

Friday, 25 June 2010

the rhythm of colors

Yesterday was the opening day of the traditional Gnaoua Festival
”Musiques du monde” in Essaouira, Morocco.

The annual festival celebrates Gnaouas' music as the main feature
of a mystic tradition arrived in this scenic blue & white town facing
the ocean from southern Africa which branches can even be traced
in Haitian voodoo or Brazil's candomblé.

Originating from the exclusive fusion of African magic and Islamic
rituals the Gnaoua performance is structured around masters,
called the maâlems, who lead music and dancing with mesmeric
rhythms of drums and metal castanets (garagab)
gradually inducing a trance in the participants.

This year's programme is focused on breaking again any
boundary between cultures with inedited shows such yesterday's
night concert featuring Sukhishvili Georgia National Ballet
sharing the stage with the Armenian Navy band and
local maâlems Mohamed et Saïd Kouyou.

The 17th edition commits itself to follow harmoniously the 
footsteps of the festival's tradition while creating artistic 
innovations in order to increase Gnaoua's music appreciation.

A powerful chance to be overcome with emotion which I believe 
these archive pics will be able to fully convey.
Besslâma Essaouira! وداعا 

Thursday, 24 June 2010

Charlottenborg's winter lady

Italian fashion milieu will usher in a new brand established
by three quick-witted young women loftily named Charlottenborg.
The name comes from the Copenhagen castle, built in baroque style, 
which houses the Royal Danish Academy of Arts nowadays.

The tenderfoot brand's f/w 2011 collection was presented
in Florence at Pitti Woman precollection last week (a side event 
of Pitti Immagine Uomo opened by special guest designer 
Haider Ackermann - previous post here) showing
purebred shapes where the tradition of the quilted coat 
is reinvented with creativity and irony.

A canny transposition of an old style into a contemporary,
glamorous context: small tapered jackets all made in taffeta
and padded in real goosedown feathers with upper
back leather bands crossed.
Inside pockets, collars and cuffs are all in velvet.

A collection dedicated to the independent and purposeful 
metropolitan woman, the Charlottenborg winter lady.

Wednesday, 23 June 2010

Far Eastern allure awareness

Recently I ran across some eye-catching f/w 2011 proposals
made by new interesting designers from Seoul, South Korea.

Seoul Fashion Week is the local biggest fashion business event
which opens twice a year (end of march-october) to promote
and support the country's skilled fashion industry.

This is my personal taste selection of dexterous designs where
one can easily spot echoes of vintage French shapes or passionate
style quotations as well bright experimentations.

I won't be surprised in listing Seoul among the world's fashion
capital cities in the next future.

Tuesday, 22 June 2010

London calling

Out now in stores the amazing f/w 2011 collection by Georgian 
born, London based designer David Koma who graduated last 
year with a distinction in MA Fashion from Central Saint 
Martins before acquiring the Harrods Design Award.

He received a sponsorship from the British Fashion 
Council for his debut catwalk show at Somerset House 
during London Fashion Week's latest edition 
well-earning a huge press coverage.

Strong character clothes, gorgeous sculptural dresses with 
perfect fittings often heavily embellished with metal
tubes, seductive in a upper-class way.
I bet we will hear from him again.